And just like that, we’ve wrapped on another season of London Fashion Week. And as ever, this year provided many unmissable moments, trends, hero items and collaborations worth knowing about. From a surprise appearance from none other than King Charles III, who was sat on front row for Tolu Coker’s first runway show, to a surprise performance from Little Simz, as well as Burberry’s showcase that left us all feeling like London is well and truly back on the fashion map, this season brought much excitement.
Whilst one of the "Big Four" major fashion cities, London is seen more as a hub for emerging talent and cult designers, there were still some must-see collections from bigger brands. Erdem and Emilia Wickstead, forever legends on the London schedule, debuted another season of house signatures. For Erdem, the focus was texture, brocade and romance for its 20th anniversary, with Emilia Wickstead showcasing her usual refined elegance, with a few unexpected contemporary details.
Adding to the excitement, Joseph made a grand return to London, debuting its A/W 26 collection at the Tate Modern. A brand known for its minimalist sensibilities, it pushed its own house boundaries to present "quiet luxury 2.0". Whilst staying true to Joseph’s DNA, it provided all the components of a timeless capsule wardrobe, with some surprise details. Rhinestone-clad separates, beaded knitwear and molten gold statement jewellery felt fresh for the season ahead.
Post-show talks amongst the team brought up several mentions of dresses. For a few years now, it has seemed that fashion has favoured skirts, suits and separates in general, but this time, London welcomed back the one-piece. From classic gowns at Richard Quinn, Erdem and Emilia Wickstead, to some surprising styles seen at Simone Rocha and Conner Ives, I woke up that Tuesday morning to find the note "power dresses are back!" typed on my notes app. Go figure!
Gowns at Conner Ives, Simone Rocha, Emilia Wickstead and Erdem.
Of course, it would be remiss to talk about the big brands without mentioning Burberry, which closed London Fashion Week at Old Billingsgate Market. Focusing on the city’s rainy weather as a theme, the collection was all about its iconic trench coat, but this time, creative director Daniel Lee was offering versions we hadn’t seen before. Indeed, all the celebrity guests, from Skepta to Alexa Chung, Stella Starsgaard to Daisy Edgar-Jones and Kate Moss, were wearing a different iteration of the show’s star piece. Naturally, it had been raining in London for several days, so this collection felt like it could almost be see-now, buy-now.
But whilst London may not have as many of the bigger design houses on its roster, it is home to some of the most impressive young talent in fashion. Grace Wales Bonner, Martine Rose, Chopova Lowena and Conner Ives are just some of the designers who made their way through the London circuit, many of them coming from the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN programme.
So here, when collating the eight trends I spotted on the ground whilst darting between shows, presentations and the occasional party (or three), I’ve compiled a list that encompasses not only the big hitters but the emerging talent you need to have on your radar for A/W 26.
8 Trends From London Fashion Week A/W 26 That You Need to Know
1. Military Precision
Style Notes: We've been predicting the return of the Napoleon jacket since mid-last year, but it seems it's next autumn when the runways will really explore this comeback. A jacket so tied to the "indie sleaze" era, and with the recent obsession with 2016, it's no surprise that Sinead Gorey and Keburia, two designers known for their ironic design codes and nostalgic aesthetics, would champion this. But, for this season, we saw so much more than just Napoleon jackets. From golden braided frog closures on a Conner Ives denim jacket, to Labrum's regal structured silhouettes and pins, there were sightings of military influences, even in the most subtle of ways.
2. Check Mate
Style Notes: Starting strong with Burberry, a brand known as much for its iconic Nova check as it is for its trench coat, there were a few subtle references to its famed plaid on show. However, creative director Daniel Lee didn't focus too heavily on this graphic. Whilst it came on the pictured grey trench, as well as a fur burgundy bomber jacket and scarf, it remained an elusive part of the collection. For Emilia Wickstead and Tolu Coker, however, checks were more prominent, featured across tailored two- or (three-) piece sets, and in vibrant palettes. Bora Aksu, a designer known for referencing styles of the past, looked to more traditional checks, like dogstooth, houndstooth and gingham.
3. Pinned Down
Style Notes: We reported on the prominence of brooches late last year, so it's safe to say this often overlooked accessory was well on our radar. However, for A/W 26, there was no question of this slipping through the net. Then, the styling of brooches felt fairly pared-back; this season, they're hard to miss. At Toga, one of the standout looks was a dress that had the bottom half adorned in different brooches with organic, almost molten, stones.
At Sinead Gorey, it wasn't brooches but pins, which perfectly suit the label's punk aesthetic. Pins were actually something we noticed a lot when observing street style (perhaps a progression of this trend, and one to look out for?). At Simone Rocha and Erdem, it was, as usual, all about hyper-femininity, created with jewelled pins as well as layered ribbons and rosettes (a house signature for Rocha).
4. Touchy-Feely
Style Notes: What is the autumn/winter season without texture, furs and general softness? It goes without saying that in London, the city where we can't help but talk about the weather, we expect to see some decent outerwear. Burberry, Joseph and Toga delivered this in abundance, with full-length faux-fur coats, shearling jackets and aviator bombers. But there were a few other, less anticipated hero pieces so irresistibly tactile, you can't help but want to touch them. From feathered tops and accessories at Mithridate to a faux-fur polo shirt at Fashion East's Goyagoma by designer Traiceline Pratt, as well as those furry flats at Erdem, A/W 26 is proving that being cosy needn't be boring.
5. The Rad Hatter
Style Notes: ICYMI, 2026 is all about the hat. From Kangol berets to bonnets and bucket hats, we're focused on headwear. But what about for A/W 26? According to Labrum and Argo, deer-stalker hats are on the menu. I also noticed several trapper styles, with Ouyang, Mithridate and Sinead Gorey presenting XXXL shearling-lined, shaggy and faux-fur versions, worn loose below the chin. No cold ears here!
6. Florals
Style Notes: We expect florals in spring, but in winter, it's less anticipated. Especially in London, where for the most part, the style is quite casual, grungy even. Designers like Patrick McDowell and Richard Quinn, known for their theatrical show-stopping gowns that celebrate "classic" femininity, delivered pretty floral motifs, presented on vintage silhouettes that still felt timeless. Quinn's mesmerising '80s-inspired cuts displayed florals not just as digitally-printed graphics, but with embellished beading, brooches and feathers.
Emilia Wickstead and Simone Rocha showcased a few of their own floral dresses that stayed true to their individual house codes: adorned with ribbons and rosettes for Rocha, and off-the-shoulder silhouettes for Wickstead. Cult designer Masha Papova, however, presented a floral-printed leather jacket with matching short-shorts and shoes, delivering a three-piece look we didn't see coming.
7. Victoriana
Style Notes: Victorian-inspired fashion was a major theme for S/S 26, either with gothic references to hair and corsetry at Dilara Findikoglu or with romantic references like lace and "Froth" at Simone Rocha and Bora Aksu. For A/W 26, Victorian influences feel less gothic and more whimsical. Aksu and Rocha delivered what they always do: highly detailed lace gowns, with layers and swathes of sheer fabric and frou-frou skirts. The tailoring also felt quite Victorian, with Erdem's rigid high collars under blazers, tweed three-piece suits with brogues at Bora Aksu, and even Conner Ives referencing Dandyism by way of the '80s, with cummerbunds and neckerchiefs.
8. Heavy Embellishments
Style Notes: There's no question that A/W 26 was one for maximalists. Even designers known for their pared-back approach, like Joseph, delivered looks with heavier luxe details like rhinestones and embellishments. A standout look from Joseph was a cream knitted midi skirt and jumper set, which was heavily adorned with long, almost spiked beads.
For Conner Ives, this was a black two-piece set adorned with large, coin-like circular sequins that appeared almost like scales in the light. Richard Quinn, as previously mentioned, presented multiple opulent gowns decorated with ornate embellishments. At Emilia Wickstead, a strapless gold sequin number will certainly be looked upon as a trophy piece come party season, displaying beaded fringing along the hem. Spectacular!
