Valentino's F/W 26 Show Just Made the Cummerbund Fashion's Most Unexpected It Accessory
Valentino is entering a new era—and doing so in its hometown. Following the passing of founder Valentino Garavani earlier this year, the house returned to Rome for its fall/winter 2026 show, staged inside the storied halls of Palazzo Barberini. It marked another step in Creative Director Alessandro Michele’s ongoing evolution of the brand since his arrival post-Gucci—a tenure already defined by his signature romantic maximalism and deep love of '70s references.
For Valentino's fall/winter 2026 show, Michele leaned into the house’s flair for drama with sculptural silhouettes, saturated color, and styling moments that felt both nostalgic and entirely new. But among the collection’s many standout details, one accessory quietly stole the spotlight: the cummerbund. Reimagined as a bold satin waistband layered over chiffon blouses and minidresses, the traditionally formal piece suddenly felt playful, feminine, and undeniably cool. If Michele has anything to say about it, the cummerbund will be fashion’s most unexpected It accessory of the season.
Keep reading to discover all the standout moments from Valentino’s fall/winter 2026 show in Rome.
Everything to Know From the Valentino Fall/Winter 2026 Show
Cummerbund, But Make It Valentino
One of the most intriguing styling choices throughout the collection was the reappearance of the cummerbund—though not exactly as we know it. Michele reimagined the traditionally masculine eveningwear staple as a thick satin waistband, cinching the waist across a number of looks. Rather than pairing it with tuxedo shirting, the accessory was styled over diaphanous chiffon blouses, fluid minidresses, and softly draped separates.
The traditional cummerbund has been gaining traction recently, especially among Hollywood's leading men and fashion people styling silk scarves around their waists.
Roman Holiday
For fall/winter 2026, Valentino stepped outside the traditional fashion week circuit and returned to its roots, staging the show in Rome at the historic Palazzo Barberini. The 17th-century palace, known for its grand staircases and ornate ceilings, served as a striking backdrop for the collection—and notably hosted its first-ever fashion runway for the occasion. The label's show notes, posted to social media in the lead-up to the runway, make it clear: The choice of venue was more than aesthetic. Michele drew inspiration from the building’s layered architectural history, particularly the way styles and renovations from different centuries coexist within the same space.
A Colorful, Maximalist Palette
Color has always been one of Alessandro Michele’s greatest strengths, and this collection leaned confidently into that reputation. The runway was awash in rich, saturated tones: deep magentas, earthy mustards, jewel-toned teals, velvety plums, and flashes of fiery red. On paper, the palette might sound chaotic—but on the runway, it felt strangely harmonious, each shade layered against the next with Michele’s signature instinct for contrast that he often showed off at his previous tenure at Gucci.
Famous Amici
Naturally, the front row was as glamorous as the runway itself. Despite the exhaustion that typically follows fashion month, many guests made the journey specifically to support Michele—and to witness Valentino’s return to Rome. Friends of the house like Gwyneth Paltrow, Tyla, Lily Allen, Colman Domingo, Clairo, and Devon Lee Carlson all attended the show. Paltrow’s presence felt particularly poignant given her long history with the house and friendship with founder Valentino Garavani, who died earlier this year.
Statement Silhouettes
If the collection proved anything, it’s that Michele is deeply interested in shape—and the emotional effect a silhouette can create. Dramatic waterfall skirts cascaded from the hips in soft folds, while blouses were finished with plush fur cuffs that added a sense of tactile drama. Deep-V necklines plunged confidently, elongating the torso and lending an unmistakably sensual edge to otherwise classic pieces. The silhouettes felt deliberate and sculptural, often hugging or exaggerating the body in unexpected ways. The shapes on the runway were also a clear nod to the glamorous excess of the 1970s, a reference point Michele has been leaning into more heavily since arriving at Valentino.
