From Milan to New York—"Nécolletage" Dressing Will Be Everywhere This Spring
From pretty silk scarves to bold statement necklaces, "nécolletage" dressing is officially In for 2026, says fashion writer Natalie Hammond.
Sometimes a runway show unfolds like a friend telling you a story: layers of juice building to a climax with a piece of gossip so titillating, so deeply satisfying, that you feel gleeful for days. Celine’s spring/summer 2026 collection made me feel similarly, except instead of informational nuggets, it expounded on a delightful something else: the neck.
First, a string of beads that dipped in and out of a sky-blue collar. Then, another necklace, this time composed of so many loops, graduating in size, that it almost resembled a foulard. Finally, a pussy-bow shirt with the gravitas of a cravat; a creamy swoosh framed by a leather bomber jacket.
By the final look—a shirt with a heightened collar and lapels the size of tortilla chips—it was official: the "nécolletage" is the area. This was echoed outside the shows, where street-stylers embraced a more-is-more approach to nécolletage dressing, from brooches arranged in a constellation to embellished collars that were necklace-like but required zero effort. Forget weighing down your ear lobes and give your wrists a break from bangles—for S/S 26, you only need to consider your neck.
1. Statement Necklaces
Style Notes: Lemaire’s Castanet necklace (a compact mirror shaped like the percussion instrument), leather tags attached to lengths of cord, pendants ranging from pouches to perfume bottles; necklaces have become something bigger than adornment. Tory Burch’s autumn/winter 2026 show featured armoured fish necklaces, each pendant the size of a sardine, whilst for S/S 26, Chanel moved on from pearls, teaming its tweed with ropes of tubular beads. It’s less about a necklace for the sake of a necklace. Instead, it’s storytelling through your neckwear; curated strands that look as though they could have been lifted from a museum’s cabinet of curiosities. The goal is a family of unusual pendants—Alighieri’s wax-cast example conceals a secret looking glass—to add layers of interest to any outfit.
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2. The Silk Scarf
Style Notes: A silk scarf, looped then knotted around the neck, might initially feel like a stuffy old-world accessory, but, according to the runways of Acne Studios, Bottega Veneta and Celine, there’s nothing fuddy-duddy about it. Richard E. Grant even wore one to walk for Miu Miu, a geometric square of silk tucked into a half-zip knit with the collar popped. This is the gentleman’s (or woman’s) take on nécolletage dressing, and any charity shop or vintage emporium will have oodles of silk scarves to choose from. In fact, something slightly crushed or weathered by age will look right at home next to similarly lived-in leather or suede.
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3. Brooches
Style Notes: A cluster of brooches on a lapel, or even one statement pin threaded onto a cape or fastened around a sleeve, has become another way to personalise your, well, person. Safety pins that dangled with beads and crystallised hunks were spotted at London Fashion Week, whilst oversized initials appeared in Milan—a fun way to ensure everyone remembers your name. Modern jewellers are filling out their collections with brooches, including Georg Jensen, CompletedWorks and Lié Studio, whose spiralised pin, sized to sit diagonally on a blazer’s lapel, is perfect if you don’t want to dress your ears, but your clothes.
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4. Embellished Collars
Style Notes: An encrusted collar does all the work for you, giving your nécolletage some frost without having to lift a finger. Outside Prada, Elva Ni wore the brand’s satin minidress sporting its own beaded choker, both in sugary macaron shades, but a more everyday route might be a knit. Tory Burch’s short-sleeved grey sweater has been threaded with silver—everything from triangular paillettes to faceted beads and dinky hoops—elevating an otherwise humble jumper with embellishment worthy of a magpie's nest.
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5. Neck Ties
Style Notes: Ties are not a new entry into the world of accessories, but instead of a corporate-adjacent style (worn almost ironically with something like a patent wiggle skirt), they’ve embraced a different aesthetic for spring 2026. Brash retro prints—the kind you might find in a grandparent’s attic or lining a boot-sale table —are back on the streets, whether polka-dotted (and paired with faux fur) or exhibiting sofa-cushion florals. Paul Smith’s uprooted bulb is suitably whimsical, as is the leopard-spotted leather iteration by Bottega Veneta. Once you’ve found your plus one, experiment with shirts. Elongated lapels could be fun, or an undone first button like you’ve just clocked off.